Wednesday, 26 September 2012

Old Quito; historical district

Old Quito was founded in 1536 on the ruins of an Inca town and is therefore not, in the sense of time in Ecuador and South America, an old city. Indians ( a loaded term for aboriginal people) have been living here for many thousands of years and the Incas had build a city at the site where Quito is today. The Incas created an empire that stretched a big part along the Andes, and even though they were only in power over a fairly short time, they had a huge influence on the people in the Andes and on the landscapes through impressive infrastructure projects.
 
  Societies existed in South America with sophisticated   infrastructures and human interaction even before the establishment of the previously believed four pillars of  human civilisation in the Nile delta, in the Tigris-Euphrates Valley, the Indus Valley and East Central China. Interestingly this has only begun to be realised and (partially) accepted in this century. Our history books need a serious update.
 However, not much is seen or uncovered in Ecuador about this exciting development. Most of these civilisations existed long before the Incas, thousands of years before. But what the colonialist especially from Spain found in these part was the empire of the Incas, a relative new civilisation, which at it highest might have stretched from somewhere in Peru up to about the site of Quito.
 
The Incas were overrun by a few hundred Spaniards who were thought to be Godlike creatures on their horses and in armor with guns and canons. However, illnesses brought to the "new world" in the western hemisphere killed millions of people, sometimes even before they actually met the "white man" in person, and that is likely why the civilisations fell so easily to the conquistadores. 
 
When the Spaniards arrived to what is now Quito in the 1534, the old palaces and temples of the Incas had been destroyed and nothing was left, the Incas had fled to the mountains. Today the old historical Quito is a mixture of old  churches and colonial buildings and structures, and more modern structures. The socalled 'Baroque school of Quito', which is a fusion of Spanish, Italian, Moorish, Flemish and indigenous art is seen in some of the churches and monastries and is the direct reason that Quito has been declared a Unesco Heritage site.
 
The presidents office


Churches are ever present




 
 And then there are the beautiful houses, the narrow streets, the shops, the people. The seemingly endless possibility of just wandering around, take it all in and get this strange "historic feeling" one gets when being somewhere where life has been lived for hundreds and hundreds of years.
 
 
 A mansion                                    


Colorfull that it is
 
 Museum in the previous home of
Mariscal Antonio José de Sucre, a hero of Ecuadorian independence.
Somehow its always uphill
a lot of "hole in the wall" stores around




shoes anyone??
 

Marcus square in Venice?
Flag seller and family
or maybe shoelaces?
 
beautiful artstores
 
                          
         Interesting restaurant settings. Name of restaurant  is Mea Culpa, located in a former Archbishop's residence.
and finally a fact: the original Panama hat comes from and is still largely made in Ecuador.
Unfortunately they are made for midgetheads, havn't found one that fit me yet. Still looking
 
 
 
 

 
 

 



Sunday, 16 September 2012

Decrees, holidays, guest room...

This is Ecuador! Rules change, procedures change. The Human Resources (HR) department (aka Patricia, and her assistant, Veronica) has been incredibly supportive in helping us newbies settle in and in helping us navigate the system, process visas, open bank accounts, get car insurance, etc.. Patricia trickles information down to us, on a need to know basis. Maybe it is not to overwhelm us, or maybe it is just the way of a different culture where schedules state American time, if they really mean departure at 8:30 am and not 8:50 ish.

We had been here three weeks before we were informed of  the most recent government decree regarding the school year schedule. Academia Cotopaxi, is an intenatiional school offering three kinds of high school  graduation diplomas, including the International Baccalaureate, an internationally recognized diploma. Students are generally accepted to any university in the world with an IB diploma. Academia Cotopaxi also grants an American High School diploma and an Ecuadorian High School diploma. This is an international school, but the bottom line is that we exist within the Ecuadorian laws as dictated by the Ministry of Education, and we must abide by the host government's decrees.

Last January, when I (and all of the other new teachers and returning teachers) signed a contract, we were given the school calendar for 2012-13, which included the local holidays (Oct 9 - Independence of Guayaquil;  Nov. 2 - All Souls Day, Nov. 3 Independence of Cuenca; Dec. 6 - Quito Days, a 2  week break at Christmas, 1 week March break, Easter Break, etc.). However, in early August the Ecuadorian government issued a decree regarding the school calendar with which ALL schools in Ecuador were expected to comply. The new calendar included only a few days holidays at Christmas and a random 14 day holiday in February, no March break and no Easter break. The school director and board of directors have been busy trying to sort out an acceptable compromiise that honours the contracts we have all signed, the integrity of the American school calendar AND the rules of Ecuador. Many of our school staff and families (with international connections) already have plans for a 2 week break at Christmas. Needless to say, the decree has caused some stress and anxiety in our school community and it has loomed in the background for the past two weeks.

For us - Sarah has her ticket to come (Dec. 30 - Jan. 29) and Torsten and Kelly and Amelia are coming (Dec. 17- Jan.7). We had planned to spend Christmas here, exploring Ecuador, so the decree doesn't make much difference for us, except that it would be nicest to be completely free to spend as many days as possible with them... but time will tell. I may have to work several days while they are here. Fortunately, Ole will be free to take them places.

For those who have already mentioned coming for March Break - you are still VERY welcome and we are looking forward to sharing this piece of paradise with you. We have two guest rooms and I will still have weekends free to go places with you. Otherwise, it is really easy to get around Quito.
Here are a variety of shots from around the campus, taken the week before the students arrived. There is more life now.






Need a dog house?

This truck was parked at the entrance to the Park this morning. Many, many, many Quitenos take their dogs to the park for a walk on Sunday. There are huge dogs, big dogs, medium-sized dogs and little dogs. So, it makes sense that this entrepreneur parks at the entrance to the park.

El parque - continued

Looking east over Cumbaya

An amphitheatre carved into the hillside.

Sooooo cute! There must be a llama herder nearby, but we didn't
see him.

The rest of the flock (herd?)




Sunday in El Parque Metropolitano

Quito's lung - this 571 acre eucalyptus forest provides unlimited recreational possibilities for Quitenos. The pervasive scent of eucalyptus takes Ole and I back to Iringa, Tanzania. This park has many mountain biking paths, playgrounds, challenge courses with bars for chin ups, balance activities, slant board for sit-ups, open spaces for soccer, baseball, family picnics, and vistas that take one's breath away, both because of the beauty and because of the thin air. As we wandered around a small piece of the park, we came across sculptures, look-out points and, even a llama baby. If anyone knows what a llama young is called, please leave a comment to let us know. Is it a lamb? calf? kid? And do they live in herds (like goats) or flocks (like sheep)?


Families enjoying the park on Sunday afternoon

A climbing wall - one of the recreational activities available

An interesting sculpture - Ole thinks they might roll away if there is an earthquake

Another interesting rock sculpture - unsure why they are fenced in


Sometimes I have to pinch myself and ask, "Is
this real? Might I be Alice?"


 
Clearly something is going on over there.....

Sunday in Quito


After our Spanish lesson this morning the plan was to go for a walk in El Parque Metropolitano and then come home via Nayon, a village on the other side  of the mountain we live on (15 minutes from home) to buy a bouganvillea. However, we noticed that the sky was spectacularly clear this morning and that we could see 3 snow-capped volcanoes. So, we revised our plans and went down to Nayon first, because the views during the descent are incredible. We captured this beautiful shot of Cotopaxi Volcano.






Cotopaxi Volcano - a rare sight to see so clearly

One of several nurseries - in Nayon


$8 and up for these clay pots





One could save lots of pennies in these piggy banks
or plant small flowers in these...
Many beautiful bonsai
The bouganvillea that we brought home ($14 including pot)

Thursday, 13 September 2012

Hotsprings, mountains and llamas

We spent the week-end of the 8 - 9 Sept up in the clouds. Papallacta is only 72 km away from home and is only about 600 meter higher up from the 2,700 meter above the sea we live in Campo Alegre.
 It was a road trip, however (the first of many to come) as it was up and down and around and spiralled, it was serious mountain driving. Beautiful, exciting, enjoyable and a far cry from Hwy115 or the 401 for sure (or Roskilde landevej for den sags skyld).

Wildlife too, they do look a bit like raccoons


rocky and misty
 


Most pictures werre taken from the car, it was windy, rainy and 4c


Not that anyone drives too fast in the first place

 
The goal was the hot springs in Papallacta.
 
 
We were there the first weekend we arrived, on one of the new teacher introduction to
Ecuador trips and we decided then to come back and stay at the resort

 up there. Good choice as you can see
 
 


 
     Individual cottages with fireplaces (green, new and  very smoky wood) and just outside the door are the "tubs" and they are hot and great in the cool misty weather.
 
 
 A walk down to the little village  where you can get anything you need for a swim. The hot tubs outside the resort are at times as big as swimming pools and well visited by tourist and locals from Quito.
 
We went up there with two teaching couples from the school, Tim & Judy from Nova Scotia and Bill & Tina and their two young kids from California. Great people, Tim & Judy with experience from the Middle East and Bill & Tina with background from Tanzania, Cairo and now second time i Ecuador. A lot of nice chats about old places where we were at different times in life, and  mutual acquaintances. We are indeed back in  the international setting and it is comforting, I guess I missed it more than I realised.
 
We went on on a hike Sunday morning up along a mountain stream, slippery path, but well worth the effort

Trees overgrown with orchids                                  solid enough, but not a place to fall in
 
 there they were LLamas you did not have to pay to photograph, next on the agenda Condors in flight not in a cage
 
                                                                                           
                                                                                                a different way to mark a trail

   Lots and lots of orchids, but only few blooming like this
 

                                                      And trees trying to survive moss attacks
 
                                                                             
 

A great hike
 
 

 
Great contrast in this country. On the way home we stopped for lunch in Cumbaya. It is only 20 min from Quito, a sort of suburb, therefore newer and with very trendy shopping, cafe and dining places. It is also several hundred meters lower so average temp is 6 - 8 degrees warmer. That made us seriously overdressed, in the warm sense, for our Mexican meal with a cold pilsner. A perfect week-end get-away, you should try this for yourselves. Bienvenido mis amigos, anytime.